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Sumba ikat: how it is made and how to buy it well

The island's famous hand-woven textiles, and how to support the weavers.

Sumba ikat: how it is made and how to buy it well
Photo: 06Ivonne · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Sumba's ikat is one of the most admired textiles in Indonesia. The pattern is created before weaving: bundles of thread are tied and dyed again and again, often with natural colours from plants, then woven on a backstrap loom. A large cloth can take months.

Where to see it

Prailiu in Waingapu and Rende in the south-east are known weaving villages. You will also see weavers in many villages of the west.

How to buy

Buy directly from the weaver when you can. Ask how it was dyed: natural dyes take longer and cost more. Machine-printed copies exist and are much cheaper. Do not bargain hard on a piece that took months of work.

Meaning

Motifs carry meaning: horses, crocodiles, roosters and ancestral figures appear in cloths used for ceremonies, gifts and funerals. Ask the weaver to tell you the story of the piece.

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